Joel Rivera asked:




To install more memory do the following first:

Turn off computer and disconnect the power cable from the electrical outlet – Very important (Security) Open Computer Case, Discharge your Static Electricity – And how I do that? Easy touch your computer case with both hands for about 40 sec and you are free to touch the internal circuits.

Let me ask you some questions, did you check if your computer motherboard has one available bank? Ok great since the computer has an open bank let’s proceed to install the memory.

To install the memory open the bank clips and insert the memory, remember do not press to hard the motherboard you can break it and you do not want that. Before attempting to install the memory make you sure the memory is in the correct position look at the bottom of the memory stick and you will see a small division that division has to fit into the memory bank.

Ok now your computer memory is installed, close your computer and turn it on. After your computer is turned on do the following check:

Go to Start Control Panel Systems

Under the general tab you will see your computer information, how much memory does your computer operating system reads? Good and congratulations now your computer will run faster than a jaguar.

Sometimes adding more memory will not guaranty computer performance but at least you will have more memory space to load computer programs. If you added more memory and your computer keeps running slow maybe it is time to get a new one.

If this is your case then you can go to your local CompUSA, Wal-Mart or Online at Tiger direct and many more but make sure the computer has at least 1GB of memory if you want to be able to run Windows Vista Home Premium or Ultimate. You decide

If this tutorial was very helpful you can visit our website below

Rick Tana asked:




Looking for a way to get rid of your Xbox 360 e74 system error so you can play your favourite games again? You’ve got 2 options to do this. You either send your console over to Microsoft and let them fix the troubleshooting problem, or you actually going to repair the error yourself with the use of a repair guide.

Send my Xbox 360 over to Microsoft. Good, or bad idea?

 When you do this, you will have to keep in mind 2 things; The costs, and the time it will take. This is an option that does work, but it’s also costing you lots of money. When you do this, you’ll have to pay $150 to Microsoft. This is only if your warranty has been expired. Also, the waiting times are quite long too. You’ll have to wait 2-4 weeks, and in worse cases, it will even be longer than1 month!

Fix my Xbox 360 e74 system error…. Myself with a repair guide?

 This is the best option that you’ve got. Want to know why? Because it’s the total opposite of option 1. When you do this, you don’t have to pay $150. Just a small fee for the repair guide. Also, there’s absolutely no need to wait for weeks to get your Xbox 360 back and fixed. When you do it yourself, you’ll decide how long it takes.

 It’s highly recommended to use a repair guide on this because it will take all the guess work out. I’ve heard many stories from people who have fixed their console within a day, and some even did it within 1 hour. That’s pretty good… Right? Want a fast and a cheap fix? Get yourself a Xbox 360 Repair Guide

Molly Smith asked:




No sound problems would come into your computer in a variety of ways, which includes that no sound when playing some music, movies, audio files like MIDI, WAV or in games; users cannot hear sound from mouse start navigation clicks, Windows startup sound, messenger’s user online or incoming message notification alert and etc. Even Flash video clips hosted on YouTube, Google Video, Dailymotion, CNet Video, MetaCafe, etc, will not output the sound…

Generally, you can set about the troubleshooting from the following aspects:

First, check whether you have a right connection to sound box or earphone.

Second, check whether the sound box or earphone is in good working.

Third, check whether the audio cable is damaged.

Fourth, check whether the audio channels in the Windows Volume Control have been screened, if they have, cancel the screening, and make sure your volume settings have been adjusted to an audible level.

Fifth, try to play sounds from a different source to see whether it can work. If there is no sound when playing a CD, try another CD; if no sound when playing an MP3 or other sound files, try a different file to locate the problem. Sometimes, it is not the problem of your computer, but a damaged audio program.

Sixth, select any system sound such as Chord to play and see whether it has a sound out.

Seventh, make sure your speakers have been connected correctly.

Eighth, confirm that your sound device has been turned on and Windows is configured to use it.

Ninth, in the Device Manager, if there is an exclamation point (!) in a yellow circle next to your audio device, it indicates this audio has a hardware conflict with other devices, and then resolve this conflict; if a red ‘X’ next to your sound device, it indicates you have turned off this device, try to turn it on.

Tenth, make sure the compatibility between your audio device, audio drivers and the system.

Eleventh, if you use an on-board audio card, check whether the device has been turned on in the BIOS, if not, turn it on.

Twelfth, if your sound device is a plug-and-play, check whether the plug-and-play BIOS need to be updated or configured.

Finally, hope along these inspection guidelines above, you can find out the errors and troubleshoot your audio problems successfully.

Sandra Prior asked:




There are two schools of thought as to why you can, or would even want to overclock most CPUs and GPUs. One of them takes the peace, love and understanding route, namely that the manufacturing process is never 100 per cent reliable, so not every chip that rolls off the same production line is born equal. Those with the most lustrous coats and shiniest eyes (bred on Pedigree, presumably) are ready to be high-end components, but those with a bit of a squint and a runny nose may have a funny turn if they exert themselves too much.

Hence, some chips are slapped with a lower official clockspeed and sold for less groats than their beefier brethren. The potential for their intended glory remains, however. Overclocking techniques can unlock at least some of that potential, albeit at the risk of frying the chip completely.

The tinfoil hat/Angry Internet Men theory is based on the same concept but chucks in a bit of paranoia. In this scenario, every same-series processor is born equal, but The Man artificially neuters most of them and slaps different badges on what are fundamentally the same chips. Overclocking, then, is simply a way of taking back what’s rightfully yours.

The truth likely lies somewhere between the two. Mass production certainly makes more financial sense than dozens of separate lines, and it’s true that a low-end CPU or GPU can be made to punch far above its weight, but their stability isn’t as guaranteed as a chip that’s officially able to run at a higher speed. No manufacturer wants to deal with a steady trickle of returned parts, after all. But it does mean home overclocking is almost always productive – and seemingly more so with every new hardware generation.

It’s also increasingly easy. The earliest overclocking on the 4 to 10MHz 8088-based CPUs of 1983, involved desoldering a clock crystal from the motherboard and replacing it with a third-party one, with only partially successful results. Ouch. Still, the precedent was set: a dedicated guy-at-home could exceed his chip’s official spec. IBM, then very much the top dog of PC land, wasn’t entirely happy about this, so follow-up hardware included hard-wired overclock blocks.

More soldering this time of a BIOS chip, managed to get around this. By 1986 IBM’s stranglehold had been broken, resulting in a raft of ‘clone’ systems – and a wealth of choice. Intel’s 286 and 386 processors became the de facto standard chips, and bus speed and voltage controls began to shift from physical switches and jumpers to BIOS options and settings.

It was the 486 that really changed everything however. It’s telling that this was the chip most prevalent during the era that birthed the first-person shooter as we know it: 1993′s Doom very much popularized performance PCs for gaming driving system upgrades in the same way a Half-Life 2 or Crysis does these days. At the same time, the 486 introduced two concepts absolutely crucial to overclocking both then and now. Firstly, it popularized split product lines; no longer was it a matter of buying simply a processor, but rather which processor. The 486SX and DX offered some serious performance differential, and notably the SXs were hobbled/failed DXs, giving rise to the ongoing practice of assigning different speeds and names to what were the same chip.

 

For a while too, the 25MHz SXes could be overclocked to 33MHz by adjusting a jumper on the motherboard; something less salubrious retailers took full advantage of. Secondly, it introduced the multiplier: performing more clocks per every one mustered by the system’s front side bus. The 486′s 2x multiplier thus effectively doubled the bus frequency. This was something overclockers would make the best of for successive processor generations – bumping up the multiplier was the simplest and often most effective way of increasing CPU speed. Nowadays (since the Pentium II, in fact), the multiplier is locked to prevent this, save for high-end chips, such as Intel’s Extreme Edition series. For a while, there were complicated ways of defeating the multiplier lock: soldering on a PCB for earlier chips, third-party add-ons and the infamous practice of drawing a line onto certain AMD CPUs with a pencil. No CPU manufacturer’s likely to make that mistake again.

Around this time, RAM overclocking became more common place, as memory speeds were ratified, and with that came more tweaking of the front-side bus to compensate for the locked multipliers. Overclocking shifted further towards the BIOS and away from jumpers, which in turn led to overclocking software.

The first was 1998′s SoftFSB, which enabled bus-tweaking from within Windows for the first time. With the Pentium III era came aftermarket coolers, as processors now chucked out so much heat that a standard cooling block and fan wasn’t enough to cope with an overclocked chip. And so it continued, overclocking largely becoming easier and more common place with each processor generation. This leads us to the Core 2 chips of today, and Intel’s current terrifyingly unassailable dominance of the CPU market. Generally drawing as little as half the power of the Pentium 4s that preceded them, most of the range offers a vast amount of overclocking headroom, to the point that a low-end Core 2 Duo can almost go toe-to-toe with the top of the line.

So how’s it done? Key to processor overclocking is the front side bus (FSB). In the very simplest terms, this is the connection between the CPU and the rest of the PC, and its speed defines the processor’s speed to a significant extent. Intel CPUs final speed is the FSB times the multiplier – so if you’ve got an FSB of 266MHz and a multiplier of 9, your chip will run at approximately 2.4GHz. While the multiplier is usually locked – though some chips let you at least lower it, to conserve power and reduce heat – the FSB isn’t. Bump up the FSB and you bump up the chip. In our example taking the bus to 290MHz gives us a 2.6GHz processor. This is no random example, incidentally, it’s what we run the Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 in one of our office test systems at, giving it a healthy 200MHz boost that makes a noticeable difference in CPU-intesive games and hi-def video re-encodes.

What stops us from going higher? Not a lot in the case of this particular chip. We’re playing it safe for desktop work, cos we’re in a particularly sweaty office. When we’re playing around with high-end tasks, we can have it running stably at over 33GHz (with an FSB of 370 or so) on a decentish, third-party air cooler. That’s more or less trading blows with the best Intel has to offer on a $200 chip. But while going to 280MHz on the FSB took a BIOS tweak, a reboot and Microsoft BOB’s your uncle, going much higher does involve more fuss.

First up, when our Q6600 is at 33GHz, it’s also running at nearly 70°C when under maximum load (and around 50°C when idling). It’s perfectly stable, but it could damage it in the long run, and on top of that the fan is making enough noise to wake the deaf pensioner in the next street over. Watercooling, a fancier air-cooler or even just a spot of dust-cleaning will bring the heat down, but there can come a point where that stuff becomes more expensive and hassle than simply buying a better processor.

Hurdle the second is the motherboard. Pushing up the FSB doesn’t

affect only the CPU, but also the motherboard and, in many cases, the RAM

and PCI-e slot to boot. In our case, we’re using a motherboard that supports a monstrously high FSB. When shopping for a motherboard, its max FSB will usually be referred to as four times the actual speed, due to the way the processor actually fetches data. So when we’ve got the FSB set to 266MHz, in effect that’s 1,066MHz. When it’s up to 372MHz, we need a motherboard that’s happy at nearly 1,500MHz. That simply isn’t a given, especially on cheaper boards, so shop carefully. As well as that, if you’ve got a board with a stingy BIOS, you may not be able to alter RAM and PCI timings independently of the FSB, which can lead to those falling over. Ours does, and for our mighty near-Gigahertz Q6600 overclock, we have to lower the RAM’s clock speed a little to compensate for the strain put on it by the raised FSB – we have it sitting pretty at 893MHz. It could comfortably go higher, but the real-world benefits (as opposed to the willy-waving benefits, which are a different matter entirely) would be so miniscule that it’s simply not worth placing the extra pressure on the RAM.

Similarly, while faster and, most likely, more expensive RAM will cope better at their stock speeds with a massive FSB, the pay-off is often so minor that value RAM, running at a lower clock-speed may well be enough to make your overclocking masterplan hugely successful. Even the best memory will net you something in the region of just a five per cent performance boost – worth having if every little helps, but it’s the FSB that makes the big difference. And for that, the motherboard is critical.

Thirdly, there’s the matter of voltage. The faster your chip runs, the more power it needs to feed it. As the FSB goes up, you’ll find your motherboard’s North Bridge and your RAM also get hungrier.

Unfortunately, your hardware will automatically report its revised power requirements, so trial and miserable error are required to find the sweet spot. Volt tweaking is a fiddly and danger-fraught business.

Some overclocking-friendly motherboards can automatically adjust voltages for you, but are understandably conservative about it, so for the really big overclocks you’ll need to set them yourself. This needs to be done by the tiniest increments possible, establishing reboot-by-reboot how many volts your embiggened CPU needs; as low as possible, essentially, as firing too many into it can fry it. Establish in advance what your chip’s out-of-the-box volts are and, through a mix of common sense and googling, decide on a number you’re not going to risk going higher than. We pushed our Q6600 from 13 to 1.4V, which is a fairly big increase as volt modding goes. It’s not just a matter of the so-called vCore either – as you go for the big overclocks, you’ll find you’re having to play with the arcane likes of CPU PLL and FSB termination voltage. Again, so long as you raise stuff in tiny increments the risk of killing your chip, RAM or motherboard is fairly minimal.

It’s a different matter with AMD processors, which for a while now have had an onboard memory controller, which allows the chip to communicate more directly with the RAM, which in turn means there isn’t an FSB as such. Instead, you’re overclocking something known as the HyperTransport bus, which is achieved in more or less the same way, but can require lowering the NT’s own multiplier to retain stability when you bump the speed. If you’ve gone for one of the recent AMD Phenom Black Editions, you’ll find it comes with the multiplier unlocked, which makes overclocking an easier affair.

By contrast, overclocking a graphics card is dead simple. As a more self-contained piece of hardware, there’s none of this confusing multiplier or FSB business; just overclocking the card itself, finding the right speeds for both the GPU and the card’s onboard memory. Free software – some of it official NVIDIA/ATI driver plug-ins – will do the trick from within Windows, and built-in safety cut-offs and stability tests make it incredibly hard to damage the card, though of course you are going beyond the warranty. It’s also grown a little more complicated of late in that you may need to overclock the shader clock as well as the GPU and RAM for the best boosts. In the case of NVIDIA cards, it used to be that this was twinned to the GPU speed, meaning a raise in one had a synchronous effect on the other, but for a little while now they’ve been able to be altered independently. So if you hit the speed ceiling on the GPU, it may yet be possible to eke more performance out of the card by pushing the shader clock a little further.

While the present situation is that you can overclock everything and be pretty confident it’ll work, the future of the form is harder to call. One thing seems sure: it’s not a dirty little nerdy secret anymore, but an increasingly common practice, most especially with Core 2 chips. There’s a vast aftermarket cooler industry to support it, and even cheap motherboards can handle a bit of a free boost. If anything overclocking will become easier, with more and better applications to achieve it within Windows, rather than from the BIOS, and possibly more in the way of automatic volt-modding. But much depends on the future of desktop processing. There’s a big war brewing between Intel and NVIDIA as to whether the CPU or the GPU will be the major element in the PC of the near-future.

Intel are pushing ray-tracing using a multi-core CPU to render game graphics, while NVIDIA’s CUDA enables its recent GeForce cards to perform parallel processing, such as video encoding and in-game physics, far faster than a CPU could manage. If either of these bed in, overclocking will need to take them into account. At the same time, the slow move to ever-more cores potentially reduces the need for conventional overclocking, as raw clock speed continues to be a lesser concern to multi-threading and, in the case of 3D cards, the number of stream processors and texture units. That’s hardly going to stop anyone from trying it, of course. Even when its effects are minimal, overclocking’s always going to be a sure-fire way of making a system feel like its yours rather than simply a collection of mass-produced parts.

Modding the case is one thing, but what makes a PC is its performance. When you’ve painstakingly tweaked that performance into something that suits your own purposes, and it’s become something that feels like you’ve gone far beyond what you paid for it, the system will feel more unique than all the green neon tubing in the world could ever hope to achieve.

Ian Wright asked:




A computer is there to make your life easier. Remember, a computer is composed of several pieces of equipment. The latter is composed of a multitude of things, each of which needs the proper care so that they will endure.

There are many thing you can do to get to your goal. You won’t need any special skills to do this. If you are committed to having an optimally working computer then you are going to take care of it in the proper way.

You can get help in several different ways. Read the following procedures to achieve these.

It is easier to maintain the external parts of your hardware/as opposed to he internal parts. Guardianship of computer peripherals from moisture is the best thing one can execute.  When not in use cover your computer with cloth or plastic to prevent damage. Make sure your computer gets sufficient airflow. Excess heat can damage the system. If you will be using the system for an extended period of time, it is vital that you ensure that the processor does not overheat.

It is essential to check your system periodically. This is complete when you run the Scan Disk and Defragmenter often. You will want to do these at times when you aren’t using your computer. There are many sites on the internet you can browse to see what is needed to help your computer system maintain its speed and abilities.

It is also crucial to run anti-virus programs through your system occasionally. This is particularly accurate if you use the Internet often, as your computer may be frequently exposed to harmful viruses that can hinder its effectiveness.   Your whole system can be easily shut out by viruses. You should download the most recent upgrades from your virus protection company to avoid this happening to you.

These vital steps are only a few of the essential things you can do to keep your hardware working optimally.  To benefit from their industry-known tricks of the trade, it’s best to consult a professional in the field before rendering services.

Brenda Stokes asked:




When you wish to add hardware to other hardware, then you often need to have software that will perform the task of synchronizing the two devices together. Examples of hardware you may wish to install include a printer to your home computer, a keyboard to your home computer and other devices which have a physical presence. Hardware means something which is tangible, even although its purpose may be intangible, while software is something which runs on hardware – such as computer programs, online games and more.

In the case of consumer software it is usually the case that installation hardware will come along with the product, meaning you will not have to look any further than the box you got the hardware with to find the installation software. In other instances finding installation software can be harder, especially when you are looking to install the hardware on a different device from which the software development company prepared for. Installation software for printer hardware can often be pre installed on your computer, server or other device when you buy it. On a windows personal computer for example you can find an option to install hardware through accessing the control panel. It is probably worth checking out if this will work before opting to buy or find free installation software from a specific provider. If you have another type of operating system then you should also browse through options and the user manual to find out if this is a possibility that you can exploit.

If you are unsure of the software that you will need in order to install printer driver then you should look inside the user manual and find out if there is an explanation of how you would install that hardware on your machine. If there is no explanation, or advice as to which driver download you will need, then you will need to consult a computer engineer for advice on how to approach this problem, however before you do that it is best to check out if there are any online resources that could help you with this. If you do a search for install “software name” on “hardware name” then you may just find that someone already has the solution there for you. It is also worthy of note that you should try variations of this search query to find out if you can yield any relevant results.

Once you have identified the software you need, either through the internet or otherwise, it is now time to locate and purchase the necessary software. A great tool through which to find and compare software is a shopping comparison engine such as Google Product Search or shopping.com. Type in the name of the software and they will likely provide results of a variety of providers that all offer the software, allowing you to pick the merchant that offers the best price. If you are uncomfortable about completing a purchase online then another great option is going to a local computer software supplier, who may just have exactly what you are looking for.

johnxuster asked:




Nikon’s Wi-Fi cameras are here, though perhaps a few moments too soon. The promise is great: it’s a camera that’s wirelessly connected to your computer, even when the computer is in the other room. The execution—in the shape of the Nikon CoolPix P2 I tested—still needs tweaking.

There are some cool things you can do with a Wi-Fi camera. The biggest oohs and aahs come from shooting pictures that are immediately transferred to a slideshow playing on a computer, with music and all. More mundane but equally useful are a variety of wireless picture transferring and printing options—just select a shot you like and send it to the computer or printer without ever taking your hands off your camera. You can send shots to any printer connected to a computer, but with the optional PD-10 Wireless Print Adapter ($50; out in mid-October), you can also wirelessly send shots straight to any PictBridge-enabled printer.

The trouble with the CoolPix P2 is that it lacks the range and battery life to effectively carry out its missions. Over the Labor Day weekend, I walked around the inside and outside of the house with the camera, for the most part getting a reasonable connection to our Wi-Fi network (a router located in my home office). But when I took the P2 and laptop out to the deck to create a live slideshow there, the camera had an awful time. OK, so Wi-Fi can be tricky, but at the same deck table both an Apple PowerBook and an HP Pavilion notebook had no problems connecting to the Internet via the same wireless network.

Every time the camera would lose the connection, it forgot what I was doing. I would have to wade through a bunch of menus just to get back into the photo shoot-and-transfer mode I’d been using. And after some time playing with the camera in Wi-Fi mode, certainly less than an hour, I was alerted that the battery was drained. Maybe I shouldn?t be too bothered ? after all, I was heavily testing the camera?s wireless features, which isn?t necessarily typical use. Still, it would be nice to know I could get through an entire birthday party while shooting in Wi-Fi mode.

I hate to condemn a first-of-its-kind technology because of herky-jerky behavior. Every product goes through a streamlining, an evolution. Nowadays, the product itself can be updated as improvements are made, and I suspect Nikon is hard at work trying to right some of the wrongs of its new release. The camera is surprisingly affordable for carrying this new capability; after all, in addition to being a wireless pioneer, it?s a solidly performing 5.1-megapixel camera with 3.5x optical zoom and a lot of great automatic and manual controls. (There?s also an 8-megapixel version, the CoolPix P1.) Am I saying go out and buy one? No, but stay tuned, because when the time is right, I think Wi-Fi cameras will be quite desirable.

Molly Smith asked:




When computer no display at boot up, the first thing we should check is the BIOS. Motherboard BIOS is not only the place to store important hardware data, but also the very vulnerable part in motherboard. The BIOS is quite easy to be hurt, once damaged, system would probably be unable to work. Such failure is usually because the motherboard BIOS has been attacked by virus (of course, it could not rule out that motherboard itself has problems).

Commonly when the BIOS is hurt by virus, all data in hard disk would be lost, so we can examine whether the data in hard disk is complete to judge whether the BIOS is broken. If the data there stands intact, well then there are still three possibilities to cause computer no display.

One, iffy expansion slots or expansion cards like sound card inserting result in motherboard no response and then the computer no display.

Two, incorrect CPU frequency settings in CMOS (Complementary Metal Oxide Semiconductor) in the jumper-free motherboard is likely to cause no display issue. We only need to clean CMOS to figure out this problem.

The jumper to clean CMOS is regularly near the lithium-ion battery on the system board, usually the first and the second seats are default short circuits, and jump the short circuits to the second and the third seats. If the older motherboard users could not find out the jumper, they can remove the battery, boot up the computer and enter CMOS, turn off the computer after adjusting CMOS settings, put the battery in – through this way CMOS also can be discharged.

Three, motherboard can not recognize memory, memory is damaged or memory mismatches the motherboard. Some older motherboards quite carp at memory, once the memory can not be recognized, the motherboard would have no way to boot up, and some even have no failure alarm. Certainly sometimes in order to enhance the performance of the system, people increase the memory, and they insert different model or different board’s memory which would also lead to the same problem.

When we troubleshoot the malfunction of computer on response on start, we should take heed of the aspects above.